Day Fourteen, 10-31-07

Flying home.
The trip to the airport went smoothly. I got a cab from the room and made it to the Train Station and got the ticket for the bus. When I got outside, the bus was loading. It was as simple as that.
This has been a wonderful trip. The people I have met and the places I found will always be fond memories. I was so lucky to have found such a great little town and such a wonderful place to stay.
The roads were very challenging. A great place for a vacation and something always to remember. I will be happy to be home. I love the thought of being back in Dover and back to a simple life of being in my own space and having my own kitchen.
Work starts tomorrow. I will be there at 12:00 and that's when, I'm sure the stories will start.

Final note: The crunch in the hub was a broken tooth on one of the Planet gears and not enough of a problem to have had to take the hub apart and replace the part on the road, I overhauled it when I got back to Dover and was back on the Golden Arrow with average speeds back to 18 mph three days later.

The Broken Planet Gear

Day Thirteen, 10-30-07

Woke to a sunny but rainy day at the same time! Big rain Bow in the back yard over the town. I didn't have enough time to photograph it.
This is my last morning here in Totnes. I'm looking forward to have the traveling part of my trip behind me. I have had a wonderful vacation but don't look forward to dealing with the airport and such. I just now finished with packing the bike. It all fit together nicely. Heavy, but tight. Im going tie up loose ends here and then head out for a walk and take the stereo camera to do a roll. I want to be to the station around 12.55 so as to not have to rush things. I'm not sure what track the train goes out on ,etc.

The stay on the farm has been great. It worked out very well to be in one spot and ride from here. I liked having a home to come to at the end of the day instead of not knowing where Im going and having to carry all my stuff. Learning a new country, I felt is best done slowly. Having the time to learn the town has made the trip fun and restful and exactly the vacation I needed. Things have gone very smoothly today. I made it down town and finished my color film. Made it to the cafe for emails and back to the top of the hill to finish packing and be on time for the cab. I had A nice final chat with Janet. She wants me to write here when I get to Dover, Will do Janet!

Janet Hooper

The high speed train

Boxed bike and bag

The cab came on time. I got to the train station nice and early and had enough time to rest and get ready for the next step.

Im on the train now. I have a seat with a table at it. Nice. I have chosen the side so Im facing forward. The food on the train is expensive. I was expecting a cheeseburger, but found that they only had breakfast sandwich's The train is due to Reading at 3:55. That's perfect. Enough time to get a cab and get to the room. I will go out tonight and check out the town for a bit and be ready for the trip to Heathrow in the morning.

This part of the trip is not my favorite, but necessary. Passing through the tunnels on the train makes your ears pop. The pressure of the train going at speed through a small space causes the air pressure to rise and as so the cabin. Its intense at times. Its such a beautiful day today, very sunny. I'm still looking forward to being home. It will be nice to get back to it. The train travels an just over 100 mph. I turned on my GPS and the adv. Speed is 99.8. Its no wonder your ears pop in the tunnels. I should not complain. Things have ben great and this has been a fantastic vacation, but I have always felt that nothing is perfect and that when things get tough, the story's get good.
I got the cab from the station and made it to the Oakhurst hotel in Reading. Total dump. I thought, how lucky I am that my first stay at the Great Court Farm was so nice. It could have been like this for two weeks at the price I'm paying. 44 pounds The room smells like smoke, and I'm thinking of sleeping in my rain suit! Bad Joke, but, you know. I checked in and headed out for a walk to get things for the room. After about an hour and a half I found a bunch of stores owned and run by Indian and Pakistani's This a collage town and loaded with cute girls. I got back to the room and had a little snack and watched the Simpson's. Not bad. I'm sure I will be fine. Breakfast is at 7:00. The desk said they will call a cab. I'm about 3 miles from the bus station and more than enough time to make my flight at 1;00. Not a bad day, I got done what was needed to do. It doesn't really get better then that.

Day Twelve. 10-29-07

A Beautiful sunny morning, My last full day here. I have a few spots marked on my GPS and have plans to go back and photograph with both cameras. I want to spend the day on the bike and get back here before dark.

I'm not sure if I will pack the bike tonight or not. I can hear my mother saying, "Don't put thing off to the last minute!". So will see how I feel when I get back. Great day today. I got everything done that I needed to do plus. I went back to Gray's again and for the last time. It was one of the owners birthday and all morning people came in singing happy birthday. He seemed to be unimpressed, but that maybe what they love. It was fun listing the group sitting around at the table next to me. The other owner is a card. Two gay guys, Nice place. I headed out to the two spots had marked on the GPS.

The first photo shoot went well. The shots with the digital camera look great. Heading to second spot, when I was downtown, My hub made a very bad crunching noise and started acting strange. I seemed to get all gears, but in low made a new clunking noise. Whoops!
I took it easy on the hills, tried not to get out of the saddle and ride as smoothly as I could. I followed the GPS track but found that I needed to be on the east side of the Dart to get to where I had left the mark. I made it to the village and shot many shots with the Stereo and the digital camera
Lunch at a cute little public house called The Tally Ho Inn. Very nice, I had a pint and the Cod with chips with peas.
Back to the center of town, I got Food and Beer for the house and climbed the hill without a problem.
I washed the bike and shoes and packed it so as not to put it off to the last minute.
Janet and her husband David have gone out and I'm in the room snacking and watching the tube. I'm about 75% packed and paid up. So tomorrow, my last day here, I will finish packing and head out to shoot as much with the digital camera so as to not have film in the camera for the pass through the X -ray machine. My train is at 1:22 so I want to be down at the station by 1:00 so there wont be a problem. Good day all in all.

Day Eleven, 10-28-07

Rainy windy day. Very windy. The plan is to head down town on foot and take care of mail and come back later after the storm has blown over and go out on the bike for more photos and a ride. The Weather is said to clear so we will see about that. Im starting to worry about the money and the spending so I will need to slow down on that for a bit. I certainly don't want to run out of cash. I saw the kitty's run off into the barn with some kind of bird they had caught. Janet said she thought it was a pigeon. Such hunters. I saw the driveway where I park my Bicycle covered in white feathers. I don't think this was there first catch.
Its raining out now. The rain is going sideways through the sky. They still say it will clear later today by 3:00, Maybe not enough time to ride. Tomorrow looks good and nice to think that I will not be spending the day on the trains and bus's to see the collection at the museum.
Its almost 2:00 and its still blowing and wet. A lot like yesterday afternoon. I have been downtown and done emails and been to the store to get some things for the room, Im starting to think it might be wise to blow off the ride today. With the cloud cover and the earlier sunset it should be dark in about 2 hours and not enough time to do anything of distance.

I have made plans I think to meet Stewart at the 7's at 4:00, so I will head down in about an hour. I have to say that last night I had the best sleep. I was asleep by 9 and with the extra hour, I was up at 8:25. That's 12 hours of well needed. I had to stretch, but feel great. There's a nasty cold going around town and feel good that one, I'm not around people and two, sleeping to build up my strength. It will be nice to sit by the fire tonight. At the 7 Star. Its quarter past two now and still very wet and windy. I'm going to head down to the River Side and get some lunch and use the phone and see if I can reach Stewart for our meeting at 4:00. I went to the River Side and had the fish and chips. Not bad at all, and afterwards walked into town and took more photos. I went up to St Mary's and just walked around taking my time and getting different shots.

I got down to the 7's around 4:00 and ordered a pint. Shortly afterwards Stewart showed and we headed out for a different spot. We went to a pub called the Dartmouth Inn, that had a Cask Ale that had a gravity tap rather then a pump like the standard way they pour beer here. It was very fresh and possibly the best I have had.

Stewart introduced me to a Gentleman that use to race British Motorcycles years ago. I asked him if he still rode. He said ,"No". He said he gave it up when he was 27 years old because he thought it was a kid thing and he then needed to become a Man. Funny, I think sometimes that I gave up that Idea in trade for a life! After a night of rounds, Rose came and picked us both up and brought me back to the house in time for the new show, "Long Way Down", Like the show " Long Way Round, but a trip from John O Groats to cape horn in South Africa. Snacks and bed. Good nights sleep with a wake at 4am to check what happened with the World Series. The Red Socks Won, in 4 straight games! Very exciting!

Day Ten, 10-27-07

Another cloudy day but dry and very mild. Janet commented about the noisy man who dropped me off last night at breakfast, That's Stewart and the way he is and the certain attract I have to my new Canadian friend.
My day will start as usual, Shower and then head down for emails and a cup of strong black coffee. There s a cute gal staying at the B+B now, I didn't want to ask too many questions just yet, Maybe later we will chat. I found out later she was here for a class, downtown. Its really beautiful out, a little misty and very mild.
I'm at the Red Wizard and its the same group that greets me every morning. Very nice people, I'm not sure what they really think about me. I was told by Stewart that Totnes is considered to be the "Alterative" capital of Britain. Alternate thinkers, Kind of like The folks of San Francisco. I found the right town all by luck. There is a gal on the Internet here at the café now, so I'm just waiting and writing. I'm looking forward to being home now. Just to get back to it. Not really home sick, but thinking how nice it will be to be up in the woods on my mountain bike a week from tomorrow. The Fish and Chips with Rob at the OPG on Friday looks good. I will order 2 orders and split the second with Rob, its that good. I sorta hope the beer is flat!,
I will miss the British Bitter when I'm back, another thing that will drive me crazy not having it. I may need to find a new place that serves it. After here I need to get cash and have a ride around. I have been told that the weather for Sunday looks wet and for Monday, sunny again. I will pass on the museum, the travel time , loss of riding time and the expense would take a lot of the fun away. It would be like traveling up to New Hampshire to see bikes in distance if I were at home. The day went as planned. I finished with emails and went to the Tourist office and inquired about help in finding a room in Reading on Tuesday night as to be close enough to the airport to make my flight. They gave me a few numbers that I could try. I went to the Grocery to use the phone and get some food before my ride. I called a few spots to find that they were all booked. After being referred from one to another and another, I found a spot for 42 pounds (expensive) that will have me. They are about a mile and a half from the airport. That done, I went and sat down and had a Burger and fry's.

I headed out for my ride around 11:30. It was misting, but not raining. he type of mist that tickles your face and nose as you ride and making it necessary to stop and wipe off your glasses about every 20 minuets or so. I headed out on the bicycle trail that heads north out of town.

I found a Pub that a fellow in the Halifax airport coming here recommended and said I must go to while visiting Totnes. Its a spot called the Sea Trout Inn. It was very old and comfortable. I ordered a pint, checked the map, used there wash room and split. The roads were damp and the spots of dirt on the road were slippery making the rear tire spin while climbing. I headed out and away from Totnes north west trying to keep within 10 miles from Totnes and about 350' above sea level. It started to get really windy and the mist got heavy but never turned to rain.

I was getting cold and decided it best to head back to the house. I made it back around 4:00 and watched a little TV and napped. I'm up now and its raining. Resting in the room and watching the Beatles movie Help. I will be up for a while and need to turn the clocks back tonight as it is the end of Day Light Savings Time, or what they call, English Summer.

Day Nine, 10-26-07

Woke to a cloudy dry day of about 50 degrees. Great breakfast, came back to the room and made some post cards from the photos I picked up yesterday. I'm getting ready to shower and head down town to check my emails and see about tickets for my trip to the airport next Tuesday. I read that the tickets may be cheaper on non rush hour times and that if you buy them early. Afterwards

I will head north west and try to pick up on some of the northern National cycle route #2. After finishing email and finding that I had been charged as much as 40 dollars a call on my card I decided that I wont be making any more calls with the cash card. I will need to find a phone card later when I have to make calls getting ready to go home. I finished with mailing the cards and getting and sending emails and thought how nice it would be to go back to "Gray's" for "Cream Tea", Once a week. OK? Its so great, Very civilized and tons of calories for a day of riding. It really couldn't be any better and one of those things that will drive me crazy not being able to get it back home. I'm glad I went again, and will go once more before I leave on Tuesday afternoon.

I did have a pleasant surprise today, I found that the train ticket back to Reading was only 48 dollars and 24 pounds. The bus ticket is supposed to be around 13 pounds and not any cheaper if I wait, so I will. The ride today was fantastic. I headed north west on the bike trail out of the train station and got a little turned around but soon found myself on route again heading northwest. I did a slow round a-bout Totnes staying no more then 5 miles on the outskirts and trying to stay at about 450' above sea level. I went off the #2 route and felt fine , paying attention to the compass and the altimeter. In never rained but did get a little moist so I spent the day with my wind breaker on. Very comfortable. I found a very cute pub that when I looked at the hours of operation and my watch, was only going to be open for another 10 minutes. They said it would be fine to come in for a pint. Very cute place and very old. Very Narrow, Very Steep.

When I got back to the bike it was covered with a fine cover of dew. Never a drop. The air was wonderful. I love it when it gets damp with the smells greatly enhanced. I continued on. Trying to stay at least 5 miles out of town and never any lower then 300'. I came around a big right hand corner and downhill. There were huge stone arch's ahead that looked like the aqueduct for the Boston water works, yet taller. 2 seconds later the fast train went by. That answered my question about maybe being able to ride up there. I went under and crossed a busy street and continued on to find a Trout hatchery that had a sign saying they sold smoked fish. I had to pull in. About 3 dollars. I will have it for dinner with the chips and cheese. Beautiful afternoon, I thought it be best to have lights and reflector bands on. The roads are so magical. The smell of silage and cow is enchanting. It is so green, most likely from the wet summer they had here. I still cant get over the greenery on the sides of the road. I wondered who trimmed it and how often, until I came up to an egg delivery truck that just fit. Its sides were knocking off leaves as it passed. Forget about if it ever had to pass a bike. It just wouldn't happen! My trip here so far has been perfect. The place and room I'm staying couldn't be nicer. Janet makes such a fuss making sure everything's right. She is really a very loving and caring person.
The bike has performed better then I expected. The 22 tooth cog is exactly the gear for the hills. All but a few I have needed to get off and walk and its only because of the sun pinion on the axle, that I have broken on other Sturmey Archer AW's, that I'm worried about. I do carry a spare axle and the tools to change it, but I'm riding a 70 year old bicycle with a 70 year old transmission, and it has worked great! For those interested, I haven't seen any old Raleigh's, except a delivery bicycle locked, up the street. Its about a 1970, 28" rear wheel, 20" front, Rod brake. Even with the few problems I experienced at first. I'm starting to feel like I will miss being here very much when I'm at home, but know I will be beaming with joy when ever I think back as to the fun I'm having here on My Dream Bicycle, The Golden Arrow, and the places I have and will go. I haven't had a bad ride. I have never flatted and always in total cycling splendor. There are a few people that would love being here with me. I'm not sure if the hills would agree with them of if even the frequent stops for photos and pints that have made meeting people easier then if I had not. The riding is like being in a moving post card all the time, The distant sound of the antique Steam Train's whistle echoing through the hills with the 70 year old Raleigh I'm riding is like being back in time.. I stopped a the 7 star and wrote for a bit with a bag of chips and a pint of Jail Ale. Very yummy, and,, very smooth! After I need to head to the market and pick up some food for the house. It gets dark around 6:00 here, so I have about an hour before I move on.

Day Eight, 10-25-07

Woke to a cloudy dry day of about 50 degrees. Great breakfast, came back to the room and made some post cards from the photos I picked up yesterday. I'm getting ready to shower and head down town to check my emails and see about tickets for my trip to the airport next Tuesday. I read that the tickets may be cheaper on non rush hour times and that if you buy them early. Afterwards I will head north west and try to pick up on some of the northern National cycle route #2. After finishing email and finding that I had been charged as much as 40 dollars a call on my card I decided that I wont be making any more calls with the cash card. I will need to find a phone card later when I have to make calls getting ready to go home. I finished with mailing the cards and getting and sending emails and thought how nice it would be to go back to "Gray's" for "Cream Tea", Once a week. OK? Its so great, Very civilized and tons of calories for a day of riding. It really couldn't be any better and one of those things that will drive me crazy not being able to get it back home. I'm glad I went again, and will go once more before I leave on Tuesday afternoon. I did have a pleasant surprise today, I found that the train ticket back to Reading was only 48 dollars and 24 pounds. The bus ticket is supposed to be around 13 pounds and not any cheaper if I wait, so I will. The ride today was fantastic.

I headed north west on the bike trail out of the train station and got a little turned around but soon found myself on route again heading northwest. I did a slow round a-bout Totnes staying no more then 5 miles on the outskirts and trying to stay at about 450' above sea level. I went off the #2 route and felt fine , paying attention to the compass and the altimeter. In never rained but did get a little moist so I spent the day with my wind breaker on. Very comfortable.

I found a very cute pub that when I looked at the hours of operation and my watch, was only going to be open for another 10 minutes. They said it would be fine to come in for a pint. Very cute place and very old.
When I got back to the bike it was covered with a fine cover of dew. Never a drop. The air was wonderful. I love it when it gets damp with the smells greatly enhanced. I continued on. Trying to stay at least 5 miles out of town and never any lower then 300'. I came around a big right hand corner and downhill. There were huge stone arch's ahead that looked like the aqueduct for the Boston water works, yet taller. 2 seconds later the fast train went by. That answered my question about maybe being able to ride up there. I went under and crossed a busy street and continued on to find a Trout hatchery that had a sign saying they sold smoked fish. I had to pull in. About 3 dollars. I will have it for dinner with the chips and cheese. Beautiful afternoon, I thought it be best to have lights and reflector bands on.

The roads are so magical. The smell of silage and cow is enchanting. It is so green, most likely from the wet summer they had here. I still cant get over the greenery on the sides of the road. I wondered who trimmed it and how often, until I came up to an egg delivery truck that just fit. Its sides were knocking off leaves as it passed. Forget about if it ever had to pass a bike. It just wouldn't happen!

My trip here so far has been perfect. The place and room Jim staying couldn't be nicer. Janet makes such a fuss making sure everything's right. She is really a very loving and caring person. The bike has performed better then I expected. The 22 tooth cog is exactly the gear for the hills. All but a few I have needed to get off and walk and its only because of the sun pinion on the axle, that I have broken on other Sturmey Archer AW's, that I'm worried about. I do carry a spare axle and the tools to change it, but I'm riding a 70 year old bicycle with a 70 year old transmission, and it has worked great! For those interested,I haven't seen any old Raleigh's, except a delivery bicycle locked, up the street. Its about a 1970, 28" rear wheel, 20" front, Rod brake. Even with the few problems I experienced at first. I'm starting to feel like I will miss being here very much when I'm at home, but know I will be beaming with joy when ever I think back as to the fun I'm having here on My Dream Bicycle, The Golden Arrow, and the places I have and will go. I haven't had a bad ride. I have never flatted and always in total cycling splendor. There are a few people that would love being here with me. I'm not sure if the hills would agree with them of if even the frequent stops for photos and pints that have made meeting people easier then if I had not. The riding is like being in a moving post card all the time, The distant sound of the antique Steam Train's whistle echoing through the hills with the 70 year old Raleigh I'm riding is like being back in time.. I stopped a the 7 star and wrote for a bit with a bag of chips and a pint of Jail Ale. Very yummy, and,, very smooth! After I need to head to the market and pick up some food for the house. It gets dark around 6:00 here, so I have about an hour before I move on.

Day Seven, 10-24-07

I woke today to a very cloudy and gray, but dry day. The Weather always says that tomorrow is to be the same, Cool, Dry and gray. That's OK, I'm fine on overcast days. I'm showered and ready to head out in a bit. I will head down to check my email and pick up photos for the post cards. I got my things done and was on the road to Slapton Sands by 11:30. Nice knowing where I'm going and not having the fear of getting lost and having the advantage of knowing what's coming up on the road ahead. As I reached the National Cycle Route #2, The sun started coming out. I couldn't believe that I was going to see any sun on a day they forecasted gloom. Riding the hills has become easier. I know how much power to put on to make it up the next. It all feels good at this time.

I made it to Slapton Sands and found the Sherman Tank and the War Memorial. The Restaurant across the street looked great, so I went in and had the child size portion of fish and chips. Just enough. One pint and I was on my way. I decided to take the coast north up to Dartmouth. I watched the altimeter on the GPS go from 65 feet above seal level to 550 about 7 times today.

Along the coast you are either climbing or descending all the time. My plan was to get to Dartmouth center, cross on the Ferry and do the same route back to the house finishing on the dirt road that comes out to the house. Very nice and no traffic. When I reached the house, I came down here to the 7 star and now am enjoying a pint of Jail House Ale and a bag of Cheese chips, something that has been on my mind for the last hour. Afterwards I need to go to a cash machine and get cash to bring home to pay for my firsts weeks stay. Twenty five pounds a day, 175 pounds, about $350.00, not bad at all. Today's ride was about 50 mph. My average speed has gone from 10 mph to 11.5. Things are looking up. I'm not sure what tomorrow will bring but I look forward to every ride. I need to keep track of the spending because its very easy to spend a lot of money in a short time. I will limit my spending tomorrow. And try not to get into trouble. I got socked with the use of my cash card for phone calls. I will need to buy a phone card.

Day Six, 10-23-17

Another Beautiful day here in Devon County. I woke around 4:00 and played with my camera. It seems as though I was shooting in on ASA range and not allowing the camera to think for itself. I adjusted it so in will take better picture, I think. I have had my usual breakfast of yogurt and eggs and have gotten my room tided up and are showered and dressed to head down and do a few things to the bike and add stuff to my kit bag for today's ride. I will be heading out of town on a route that I have done before to re-take photos and also ride on roads that I sort of know what's coming up. I need to check the email and stop by the post office and see if I can get blank post cards to add to the photos. Today's destination is Dartmouth. There is a Museum and a castle that seems worth looking at. More on that one later,,,,, In town now. Made it to the post office and to the Red Wizard. I'm waiting to get on line and having a "Double Shot, Strong, Black Coffee" Its quite beautiful out today. I'm looking forward to today's adventure and the new things I'm going to see. I haven't been to the Camera store yet, but that's not super important at the moment. I made it to the camera store and downloaded the photos and headed out for the ride.
Great Ride. The last half mile into Dartmouth was easily a 50 MPH decent. I held it back because it was super windy, and the bike would shift from left to right with every gust. I wanted not to crash.

Coming into Dartmouth was like coming into a bees nest. There were hundreds of people walking around trying to figure what to do. I looked at the food prices and they were too high to try anything.
I found the Museum and went in. 1.50 pounds, 3 rooms. I felt sorry for them. I did however find out more about Sir Walter. Turns out he was the first explorer to Virginia for England, Came back, didn't get along with the King, was imprisoned for 15 years. Sided with Spain and was executed! National Hero! Go figure!

The ride out of town started with a ferry ride,(for 1 pound) across the River Dart.

And a 550' climb. Very nice. Not a problem at all. I think all these little head walls are sinking in! The way back I came across a rider on a 1970ish Falcon. I asked him the best way back to Totnes. He gave me some idea that I was in fact going the right way.
I followed the route that he told me. After a while, I felt like I should ask someone else directions and found a farm with a "Cider" sigh in front.

I rang the bell at the window and an older women came out and served me some samples of the three ciders they sell. The bottles were too large to carry. I offered her a pound coin, but she refused. She made me a list of turns to take to get back to Totnes, and when we talked more, I found out that she was related to Janet, the women running the B+B. I had her write a note to Janet on the paper so I could pass it along when I got back. After following the instructions she gave me, I got a little turned around and found myself on a dirt road that was going down hill. Lots of loose rocks. Muddy in places and very nice. I could see in front of me some folks on touring bikes with fenders that the person in back was having a hard time. I caught up and saw she was having a problem with the loose rock under foot. I asked as I passed, "You don't like the loose rock, do you?" She looked at me as If I knew her whole story but said "What?" I asked "The loose rock, Not Good?", she said, "YES! Not Good!"

I came across a gentleman walking along the road. We walked to the top of the hill together, chatting about this and that. We reached the top of the hill. He said, "This is Totnes". I said "Thanks!" and rolled off. As I came to the end of the road, I realized that I was at the house. A straight shot with the last 6 miles of my ride, off road. I couldn't have asked for anything better.

I went to the house and I could see no one was home, so I turned around to head downtown for a pint and when I got to the dirt road I came back on, I saw the couple that were on the touring bikes had made it to the pavement. They were stopped as the Husband of the women that runs the B+B coming and bringing the cows home from the field. He asked if we could all wait. 120 cows coming home. Very Sweet. I loved it!
When the parade was over, I said good by to the couple and went down the 200'foot hill to the center of town and the "Royal Seven Star" for the first pint of the day. I met a fellow, a Canadian, by the name of Stewart.

Nice fellow. He told me he was a book writer who had just finished a trilogy about the Canadian involvement in the first world war. He asked me If I had made it to Slapton Sands and told me of a US war memorial there. He showed on my map why the Americans had chose that beach for training for the D-Day landing at Normandy. He told be I should go back and see it and check out the Sherman Tank, known as a DD, It was a special model with props on the back and a canvas skirt around it to float from the special landing ships so the US could have tanks ashore. Sounds interesting, I may go back tomorrow.

Day Five, 10-22-07

I woke to the Cow's mooing and a cloudy day. The weather gal says cloudy but dry and in the mid 50's, Great for taking photos. I'm planing on heading to do laundry, emails, camera shop to pick up my photos for my post cards and go to the bike shop. I also want to do a little work on my bike. I wont need the second gear on the hub so I'm going to remove it and have only the 22 tooth cog on it for a straighter chain line. Afterwards head out for a ride most likely north of the River Dart. Yesterday I could see folk's down below walking the bank, so I will try to find that spot. Another great day. Not many miles but a lot of living. I got everything I wanted to do and that's about as good as it gets. The photos for the post cards were larger then expected and needed trimming to fit the sticker backing. I went to the room and trimmed them down.
I went to a soot named "Grays" its a tea room of 3 star level. I had what they call cream tea. That is scones and clotted cream and jam. The tea was good the scones, the best!

Scones, Clotted Cream and Raspberry Jam

Tea Service for One

Grey's Tea Room

The Tea Cup Tree

I found a pint glass for the room. I needed to have something so I could save a little money by not having to go to the pub all the time that comes to about 20 dollars each pass. Not bad, but I just don't to run out of cash. I found the other side of the river and the trails I could see from above on the other side. Very Nice. I took some photos and headed out to see if I could get the post cards mailed and to the Castle. By the time I got to the Castle it was closed, It closes at 4:00. Something for another day. I did find the bicycle shop. Cute little place. Mostly Specialized Bicycle Products. The guy helping me said he had been to Specialized at Morgan Hill California. Small world. I bought oil and cleaned and oiled my bike on there bicycle rack in front. Laundry done. Food for the room, All in all a very good day. I love this town. People are so nice. I was surprised to see that sell fireworks at the supermarket. Really. Last night on the way back up the very steep hill there two small kids coming down on razor scooters. Very very fast. My guess around 30 MPS. I couldn't ever imagine what that would be like. No helmets, just young male energy, You do it and I will too. The kid in the back had a flat spot in his rear tire. So as he rolled it went thump, thump. Thump! But really fast, Like 30 mph.

Day Four, 10-21-07

Woke at 6:30 after falling to sleep after England lost the World Cup in Rugby. I Listened to it on the radio I brought with headphones. Very exciting. They lost to South Africa. They said on the BBC news that the whole country was going crazy. Green is the teams color and every thing has been green for the past week. They said the Newspaper was printed on green paper and the milk bottle tops were green as well. That's Passion! Today is truly beautiful out. Very sunny and very clear. I can see by breath when I put my head out of the window. I just returned from my standard breakfast of black coffee, yogurt, and two eggs, soft boiled that I eat in the shell. I'm getting quite good at taking off the tops and spooning out the liquid yoke with spilling a drop. I never realized how difficult it was until I started my new love for fresh eggs. I hope there as good for you as people have told me. Today I will go down town and take some stereo slides and check my email. I need to check my flight times again so I can make plans for the departure on the 31st. There's no rush on that, but it would be nice to get it over and done with. Afterwards, Head out for a ride south to the water. I was quite surprised how close things are in relation to how far they looked on the map. I found that 2" equals 1 mile. So it now looks like I can spend more time away from Totnes then planned. I just don't want to get stuck out and have to come back in the dark until I get a little more use to riding on the narrow,hilly roads. I finished with emails and headed off for my ride to find that the map wasn't quite right. After getting turned around for a bit, I asked a young gal if she knew if I was on the right road, according to the map. She said her Dad would be of more help and called for him. He told me that the way I wanted to go was the route I had done a couple of days before. Fine, very beautiful. I headed off and he came out and reminded me of a pub I had stopped at. I thanked him and told him I had been there.

12 miles into my ride and many hills, I came into a town that was another I had to stop at. I found the Pub, and asked If I could have a pint on the bench outside. Her answer was "Well of course you can!" I told her that back in the states it wasn't permitted. And never an "of course!!": she laughed. I looked at the menu and saw first on the list, Beer Battered Haddock. Well of course!! I love being here. Its so wonderful to have such a wonderful place to use my old Raleigh. I found out last night my the Michelin Green Guide for Britain that Sir Walter Raleigh was from Devon. And now really appropriate. As I type, a fellow just now asked me to hold his Dog, Sydney, while he went in to get a pint. I asked him if he was coming back out and he said, Yes. So as I write this I have a dog leash around my wrist. The first group of folks to come up looked at me quite strangely. Please disregard anything I might have said earlier about the Fish and Chips over here. I just had the Best I have ever had. Its so nice out right now. I cant imagine it ever being nicer then this. Foods great, People kind and the scenery to die for. I was told by the guy with the Dog that this whole aria was occupied by the Americans during WW2. Everyone was asked to evacuate and only the American solders were allowed.. He also said that I could find out more about Sir Walter Raleigh in the next town over. Dartmouth. The mouth of the Dart!

Time to finish my pint and move on. Hill after hill, I actually walked up one. It was so steep,it hurt. Some of down hills are so steep and so walled with the hedge on the sides it laughable. You just have to let it go and hope no one is coming the other way. Every once in a while, someone does. You need to either stop or get way over to let them go by. Cars, when the meet, need to back up to a pull over so they can pass. It always works out fine. Its really funny how narrow the roads are. I made it to the ocean at Slapton Sands. I still stayed with the "national cycle route" that turned me around and back to Totnes. I'm now back at the Royal Seven Star, enjoying a pint of Princeton Brewery's, Jail Ale. after what was one of the toughest 50 mile rides I have ever done. Today Was incredible. I'm starting to feel more confidant with the down hills. I love riding here as difficult as it is. I hurt all over. My whole upper body has been used more in the last 3 days of riding then I ever expected. The hills are so steep that if you let go of the brake levers for 30 seconds, you would be up to 30 mph in no time. The feeling of knowing the road and having done a section before is the best. I'm so glad I have the 22 tooth cog on. Its as low as what's made for the hub making the hill climbing as easy as possible, but for the most part still high. The problem with a 3 speed is the lower you make the low gear you take away from the high. Not too much of a problem when right after a back breaking hill climb your faced with a super fast down hill. My hands hurt from riding the brakes. Muscle strengthening that just doesn't happen back in Boston. I Love It. All in All, Another Great Day!

Day Three, 10-20-07

Starting my day in the usual manner. Breakfast of yogurt and eggs. Just what I want and need. Breakfast conversation was with a young couple about global warming. How things have changed here in the UK weather wise. They blame the wet past summer on the problem.

This morning I will head down town and check my email and have another cup of coffee. I want to head over to the market and get some stuff for a small picnic later today. My bicycle is locked up down the street and I have taken to shopping around and waiting for the cloud cover to burn off. I went to the Red Wizard Cafe and got on line to answer letters and get in touch with friends that might be wondering how things are going. I found a photo shop that will have some of my photos ready on Monday to turn into post cards and send back to the US.

I found the Fish and Chips spot that the son of the B+B had recommended and ordered a small. It was OK but not as good as the OPG back in Watertown Ma. Seems as though that they don't know what crispy Fry's are. Good though. The fish is always good and always seems to need salt.

My plan now is to get to the store and get some stuff and then try to make some calls. I stopped at the Royal Seven Star for the first pint of the day and went for two. Only seems right. Afterwards I went around and shot photos with the stereo camera. Many folks came up and said they loved the camera. And many waited for me to take the shot before passing. So polite! What a great town. Everybody is so friendly and when they hear me speak thy become extra nice. I went to the market and picked up beer for the house and a little pork pie. It was like a meat ball in crust. Not very good, but only 53p which is about a dollar,US. Totnes Center Happy Raleigh My morning routine at the "Red Wizard" Then it came to me. The key for my bike was gone! Not very good with keys am I. It was returned to the customer service desk and all was good. I went up to the house and dropped off the beer and camera. My new watch, a 70 year old Waltham Watch, As old as the bicycle Im riding,the strap I just got last Wednesday on the way to the airport, broke. No big deal. I put in my pocket and headed out for a ride. I went back downtown and found the bicycle trail that heads north. A mix of pavement, dirt, leaves and fun. Being Saturday and now sunny, there were alot of people out. The trail zig zag's around and splits at a foot bridge that heads over the River Dart. There was a sign that said no cycling. Fine. I turned around and headed back on the trail north. It seemed to finish at a gift shop plaza that lots of folks were walking around with nothing better to do but shop and eat. I went passed and found a road that went up hill and turned around back to where I started. I headed back into town at the end and found a watch shop and left my bike unlocked in front and went in for a watch band. After dealing with the clerk,I mentioned that my bicycle was unlocked. he said "please bring it in" He loved the bike and was quite impressed . He loved the fact that it had 2 cogs on the 3 speed hub. He said, "well, its a six speed, isn't it?" He lifted it and said Its not light, is it?" I told him that its very fast and one of the fastest bikes I own. I told him that my average speed on the bike back in Dover and around was 18.5 MPS and here its dropped to 11. He said, "well now, I guess you will find out exactly how fit you are!" I told him how much I love the town and how pleasant the people have treated me. He thanked me for the sale and the business and wished me a happy and successful stay. I headed back to the house, stopping for home ham and cheese for snacks with the beer and TV. Great day all in all.

Day Two, 10-19-07

I am starting my day after showering and breakfast at the keyboard and watching the TV for the news and weather. After breakfast I will build the bike and get the cameras ready for today's ride and photo soot. I'm not exactly where I will be going but for some reason I think it will seem mostly up hill. I do want to find a cyber cafe to write home, but those back there understand that it is hard. The bike is now built and I'm getting ready to head out for the day. I have the stereo camera loaded and a new set up where the lens cap is tied with a tether. This will make things quicker and cleaner for getting shortly without too much fuss. Breakfast was great, Two soft boiled eggs, to order, Yogurt and black coffee. Just right. My plan is to go down town to the department of tourism and get some Ideas and then find a phone card to call home. Today will be a round town type of thing with hopefully fish and chips for lunch. More later,,, Down town now, just came from a cyber cafe and wrote home, again, just like San Francisco. Coffee was very good. And now being 12:00 the fish and chips spot has just opened so here I sit. My surprise. You can have a choice of what kind of fish you want! I chose Cod because the gal behind the counter said it was first on her list of 3. My first "Fish and Chips" The Kodak Stereo Camera The Golden Arrow and the Palm Pilot Everyone is so nice! Its starting to cloud over a bit making it a little nicer to see. The town is packed with tourists. And there is a open market set up down the street with live music. The Fish is here now. I'm missing the people I love, but its so very nice to be alone right now. I am on this really beautiful bike trail and have found a fence post to set up my keyboard and add to this.Im about 150 feet above a river overlooking a huge field with a stone wall break with another pasture on the other side that goes to the river. There about 30 cows in the field, golden brown. There is a large tour boat heading back to where I started. Blue and white with about 150 passengers dressed for cool weather. There too far away for them to see me. I really can't imagine having this much fun with other riders , this is a real vacation! The sign below says "all cyclists please walk through the woods" Due to the steepness of the hill. I think I will obey! When American tourists tell you that the roads are only 8' wide they were right for the most part. Some are 6.5, What they don't tell you is that the edge of the road is a solid wall of vine that has a stinging thorn and when you get scraped, it stings and itches. I just came out of the woods and on to a down hill that has brought me to the town of Ashsprington. There is a pub across the street from the bench I'm writing from, and its 2:10, I think I will see if there open. The bench here has a plaque on it that says " To commemorate the Coronation of H.M. Queen Elizabeth II ,June 1953. Hell, I bet you would never see that in the USA! Nice Pint, nice place. Very tidy as the Brit's would say. I love the homey feeling that you get when you go to a eatery that the staff are happy to be working and are happy to have and meet new people. It seems as if at this time in the trip that there will be no shortage of that! Nice ride afterwards, Out and back. It was getting late and Having no lights I didn't want to get stuck out. I think I did about 30 miles today. All very hilly and still strange to be riding on the left hand side of the road. I returned to Totnes center and am now at the Royal Seven Star for a pint of Cask. Jail House Ale. Very smooth and very nice. My gearing The narrow roads with thorns on the side Totnes Center Next, on a recommendation of a close friend back home, steak and kidney pie. It was OK, The vegetables were great and cooked perfectly. Tiny new potato's, broccoli, cauliflower and Carrots. Perfect! I bought this map today at the department of tourism. Its huge. Its one of those maps that , heaven forbid you ever have your front seat passenger while driving open it up all the way.It would surly cover the whole inside of the windshield and totally block the view. The detail is so fine that even with reading glasses its hard to read. Watering eyes and runny nose, forget about it. I made the mistake of opining it in the wind. Holy shit! This is what you would call a nosey map! I tried to find where I was on it but it doesn't seem that they use street signs and names on the streets here. Did Napoleon ever come here in that France has it down. I laughed out loud while folding it as it got hung up on by brake lever on the bike and almost tore. I thought of the classic frustrated traveler that just cant fold a map. I would have loved to see me in the state of full, map sheet to the wind. Funny. All day long I have been worrying about the fact that I haven't found my key to the house and the room. I never lock my room, maybe too trusting, but I don't keep anything in it that I cant loose. I came home and straight up, I could tell Janet had been worrying about the missing key all day long. I went through everything again and found it in a bag that just didn't make sense, When I went down stairs she was talking to her son and heard me walk up with the key on my finger to show her. She slowly turned around and well if it isn't Mr Jingles! Were starting to like each other. The gearing on the bike is just right. I'm so glad I took the 22t cog. My average speed is way down but the pain in my hands on the pars and levers is much less. The hills are so steep that downhill speeds are as fast as you would ever want to go. It will be nice to have the hill training under my belt from riding around here. I have never seen riding conditions like this and so many nice pubs to stop at. Its like a very good dream.

Day One 10-18-07

Im writing this as I'm flying into London for the first day of my solo UK bicycle vacation and sky is bright red. Very beautiful!
My 1937 Raleigh Golden Arrow 3 speed is boxed and in the baggage hold. When I arrive at London;s airport,Heathrow, I will go through Customs and find a information booth to locate a train or bus to take me south west to a town called "Totness". I have plans to stay at a bed and breakfast for two weeks , do day trips around and shoot as many photographs as possible.
I have with me my 1950 Kodak Stereo camera that shoots slide film for stereo slides to be viewed with a special viewer. I also have my Sony Cibershot 5 mega pixel digital camera with enough memory to shoot about 1000 photos of various sizes.
The trip is a dream come true for me. Something I have been wanting to do now for over 30 years. Having no commitments and alone for the most part, I now have the time to myself to do exactly what I want to do.
I have never done anything quite like this before. Going to England alone and riding My Dream Bicycle will be great experience no matter what.

The Bicycle was found about 4 years ago, on the side of the road and being thrown out. It was in a large row of trash that looked as if they had cleared out a building. There were desks, lamps. chairs, boxes of trash and two bicycles. The one that caught my eye turned out to be nothing really worth taking , but behind it sat a Raleigh Golden Arrow. I knew exactly what it was haveing owned two others, the first found in the early 70's. I had actually had dreams of finding another Arrow like this in the trash but waking in the morning and finding it was only a dream. This time it was for real.

The 1937 Raleigh Golden Arrow as found

The Golden Arrow, Restored


The bike was covered in dust. The special bars called "Lauterwaser" bars were upside down with the grips in the center. This was perfect because the exposed part of the bar when set up correctly had been protected for years by being covered with rubber grips and upside down. The seat had been replaced with a very large leather spring saddle that was better suited for a upright ride. The Golden Arrow was designed to be low and long and not an upright style bicycle at all.

The old saddle

The Lauderwasser bars as found



Over the next month and a half, I totally dismantled the bike and rebuilt it to how it was originally designed.
I used the bicycle for special occasions and nice days that were dry as to not ruin the cotton cord tires that were completely unavailable if I ever needed a replacement.
In July I came to my senses and switched the rims to 700c and now can actually use the bike for what it was intended for. Real riding. I now have a bicycle that I feel comfortable riding long distances on. It was truly one of the best things I have ever done!
Vacation time for me over the last 15 years has always been a joint effort with someone close. This year would be easy to make plans for me and me alone. This is how I came up with the idea of riding in the UK on my Golden Arrow as I have always wanted to do from the very first day I figured out that a British Bicycle was truly a wonderful bicycle to ride. The feeling is incredible and the freedom of the "go anywhere machine" is truly one of the best bicycle experiences any one can have. Its only appropriate that the bicycle be enjoyed in the land it was designed in, "The Mother Land!"
The switch over from Heathrow to the train to Totnes was easy, Far easier then I expected. I took a bus from the airport to Reading and then now on the train to Totnes. The train is crowded and the folks look like the salt of the earth. Very comfortable. Its not what I expected and brings to mind that the fear of unknown is always unknown fear. Its easy to fit in and go with the flow, and now I'm on my way!



The countryside is quite beautiful. It is the perfect day and very different then what I expected after having more then a few customers at Wheelwork's, the bicycle shop I work at, tell me that I should expect rain. I an totally equipped with full rain gear as well as wool clothing for the worst of conditions.
Im on the train with a group at a dining table. The two across from me are doing a cross word puzzle and the gal to my right, hasn't said a word.
Im not really sure how long the trip to Totnes will be. We have been traveling now for about 1/2 hour in the train through mostly farm land.
I will be staying on a working dairy farm in Totnes. It sounds great. I was told by a fellow in the bar in Halifax, Canada last night at the switch over that If I liked hills, I wont be disappointed.
So as it turns out the guy across from me at the table, doesn't know the gal he's chumming up with. Im not sure if he even knows her name and all along I thought he was her Dad or uncle. He's drinking Gin and she, tea. They are both very friendly. He's from England and she is from South Africa.
We have made a few stops and the view out the window is getting hillier. Still farm land.
The flight last night was good. The food bad. And the flight attendants very friendly. I had a long conversation with one of the gals when she asked If I was coming to the UK to ride. I had to tell her all about the dream come true and show her photos of the bike from the palm that I am writing on now,
All is good for now. British cash in my pocket and on to Totnes.
They said its another hour to Totnes so I went to the dining car and got a Bass ale and a cheese burger. The view out the window at the moment is all farm land, very hilly and quite beautiful. I can think of a few people that would love this and wish they were with me for the adventure to come.
The older man with the gal doing the cross puzzle got off the train. He was quite chummy with the people at the station as he walked off, using his hands to talk and making a couple smile. Im not sure if he knew them as well.
I have no phone service here and so far haven't got the WiFi on the palm to receive my emails. I only hope that the B+B will allow me to use there's so I can keep in touch with the people at home that are thinking about me.
It now looks as if I will need to leave Totnes a day early so I can make my flight. The time traveled from the airport has been 4.5 hours and I haven't even arrived yet. My plan now is to go back to Reading where the bus dropped be off and spend the night with the bike boxed and ready to fly.
I am missing my flight itinerary so I will need to go on line at sometime and get it. I do however remember that I need to be at Heathrow at 11:00 am on the 31st of October as to make my flight. Not to worry now, The day is two weeks from now and all is fine.
The train has just now come out to the shore. Very beautiful, rock cliffs every once and a while we go through a tunnel and back out to the water's edge. The sky is partly cloudy but very sunny. The view is spectacular!
I think I have chosen the hilliest town in England. The photos will show.
I met a cab at the rail station and went up to the B+B. And up it was. Much nicer then I thought it would be. Fantastic view off the front lawn.

Great Court Farm

The view of Totnes Center from Great Court Farm's front lawn

The Home is very cozy. The women running the B+B is a little stiff but very nice. I dropped by things and had the cab take me down town to his favorite pub, or public house ,as I found out yesterday. Beautiful spot by the canal. Very clean and very nice. The pint was delicious. Classic British Bitter. 2.30 a pint which is about what we pay in the US, in that the Imperial pint is actually larger and a true pint. That must piss off the Brit's when they go west.
I walked around town checking out shops for the rest of the afternoon. My last stop before using the phone and heading up to the B+B was another Pub, The Royal 7 Star, that has a October Fest going on where they give you a card for 10 pounds and you can get 5 pints. A savings of about 5 US dollars. Cool! Save money by drinking beer!
I returned to the B+B and asked to use the Internet to check in. The host wasn't to excited about that but allowed me to use it.
I went to my room and napped. I woke around 8:00 and stayed in my room reading and looking at maps and planning my trip.










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